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If you fall before placing any gear, then you fall twice as far as there is rope out to absorb the energy. Climbers call this a factor two fall and what makes it bad has nothing to do with the distance fallen. It places the maximum force on the belay anchors. If these blow out, then both of us will fall to the foot of the route about eighty feet below. This is why if there’s going to be a hard move on a pitch it’s better for it to be at the top, rather than the bottom. At last I’m feeling nervous. ‘We could go ten feet to the left and climb an easier route’, a part of me says, ‘There’s no disgrace in leaving it for when you’re good enough. Look at it – it’s way too hard for you. How many climbs have you done at this grade? Come on, think of Nick, it’s his neck too, nobody’s going to think less of you for exercising judgment…’ I hate that voice. I want it to shut up, and then I see a slot for a small nut and it does… With some protection in place I can think about the moves into the. It started at the second attempt, and I roared off into the cold afternoon. This was the final throw of the dice as far as I was concerned, and was a last desperate attempt to convince myself that this was all in my own imagination. I turned out of the street and onto a single lane road, which twisted and turned in a seemingly random manner.This activity proved to be a catharsis to me, and for the first time in days I started to feel in control again. I felt exhilarated as I twisted the throttle, and the corners seemed to throw themselves at me at a faster and faster rate and I had the sudden urge to just keep going, to get away from this town as fast as I could. I had a sudden certainty that if I put enough distance between myself then I would be able to escape the fate had seemed to be planned for me, so I pulled the throttle back some more.I suppose it was inevitable. I never saw the truck until it was too late. I tried to swerve away from it and onto the other side of the road,.
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